---
title: "How to Shoot Over a Blocking Ball: A 15-Shot Cue Drill"
url: https://billiardnews.net/how-to-shoot-over-a-blocking-ball-a-15-shot-cue-drill
published: 2026-10-26T07:34:51Z
updated: 2026-10-26T07:34:51Z
summary: "Learn how to shoot over a blocking ball with minimum cue elevation, centerline contact and a progressive 15-shot practice drill."
author: "chudat"
categories: ["Learn"]
tags: ["Billiard University", "Cue Ball Control", "Elevated Cue", "Pool Drills", "Pool Training"]
lang: en
---

# How to Shoot Over a Blocking Ball: A 15-Shot Cue Drill

*A practical elevated-cue technique guide with five obstruction distances, diagnostic tables, and a repeatable 15-shot scoring system.*

When a ball or cushion blocks the back of your cue, raise the butt only enough to clear the obstruction, establish the aim line before elevating, strike near the cue ball's vertical centerline, and use a short, smooth stroke. Extra elevation magnifies swerve, hop, tip-placement error, and balance problems. The 15-shot drill below reveals the exact obstruction distance at which your technique begins to break down.

## Why Are Elevated-Cue Shots So Difficult?

An elevated-cue shot—often called a jacked-up shot—is required when the normal cue path is blocked behind the cue ball, the cue ball sits close to a rail, or the player's bridge cannot stay at its usual height.

The challenge is not simply an unusual stance. Raising the cue changes the physics and the way the player sees the line.

Dr. Dave's [cue elevation guide](https://drdavepoolinfo.com/faq/cue/elevation/) identifies several connected problems:

- A small left-or-right tip error creates more swerve.
- The vision center can shift away from the cue line.
- More elevation makes the cue ball hop.
- More speed can keep the cue ball airborne longer.
- Contacting the object ball while the cue ball is bouncing can change the cut angle.
- Follow-through becomes limited because the cue points into the table.
- Draw is harder to preserve over distance.

These effects multiply. A player who raises the cue too much may also grip harder, hit faster, contact off-center, and steer during a cramped finish.

## What Is the Safest Technical Principle?

Use the **minimum practical elevation**.

Every unnecessary degree makes center-ball contact and visual alignment harder. The goal is not to make the cue look vertical. The goal is to let the shaft pass cleanly over the obstruction while preserving the closest possible version of the player's normal stroke.

![Top and side views of an elevated-cue setup](media:b98710bd6250b95f)

*The blocking ball is behind the cue ball on the grip side. Raise the butt only enough to clear it, then deliver a compact stroke near the vertical centerline.*

If a mechanical bridge or different stance can keep the cue flatter, consider that option first. Elevation is a solution to a physical constraint, not a style choice.

## How Should You Build the Aim Line?

### Aim before raising the cue

Stand on the shot line and place the cue close to its normal angle. Identify the center-to-center line for a straight shot, or the required contact line for a cut. Only then raise the butt while trying to keep the tip and shaft on that established plane.

This sequence reduces a common vision-center error: attempting to discover the line only after the head, shoulders, and cue have moved into an unfamiliar elevated position.

### Check the cue from above

Once elevated, glance down the shaft and confirm that it still points through the intended cue-ball contact. The bridge hand and grip hand should not pull the butt sideways.

Some players strike center ball more accurately when they look at the cue ball during the final delivery on this specific shot. That is not a universal rule. Test cue-ball-last and object-ball-last focus and keep the version that produces the tighter contact pattern.

## Where Should the Tip Contact the Cue Ball?

Begin near the cue ball's vertical centerline with no intentional sidespin.

With an elevated cue, even a small lateral offset produces a masse-like curve. The cue ball can leave the visual aim line before it reaches the object ball. Aiming compensation will not be stable if the tip contact itself changes from shot to shot.

Use a clean striped ball as a diagnostic cue ball during practice. Place the stripe vertically. After each shot, inspect the chalk mark:

- A mark centered left-to-right supports a straight delivery.
- A mark consistently left or right reveals a stroke or alignment bias.
- A scattered pattern means the stroke is not repeatable enough for aim adjustments.

Do not confuse vertical offset with lateral error. A slightly high or low hit can be intentional later, but the mark should remain on the vertical centerline while the basic technique is learned.

## How Should the Bridge, Grip, and Stance Change?

### Shorten the bridge

A shorter bridge limits sideways movement and makes the restricted stroke easier to control. The exact length depends on the obstruction, but the bridge should be compact enough that the shaft stays supported throughout the delivery.

### Choke up on the cue

Move the grip hand forward. This brings the body closer to the cue ball and reduces the reach required at the elevated angle. Do not force a normal rear-hand position if it pulls the shoulder backward or destroys balance.

### Add stable bridge-hand pressure

The cue is pressing more downward than usual. Keep the bridge hand planted and distribute pressure through the fingers or palm. The bridge must not collapse or slide as the shaft passes.

### Keep the grip light

Players often squeeze because the position feels insecure. That tension makes the stroke jabby and encourages steering. Hold securely but allow the cue to move through a compact range.

## What Stroke Works Best?

Use a short backswing, a brief pause, and smooth acceleration. The forward stroke should be decisive enough to reach the cue ball cleanly but not a downward stab.

A long follow-through is neither necessary nor always possible. The cloth stops the cue's downward path. Trying to force a normal-length finish can cause the tip to dig into the cloth, lift the cue ball incorrectly, or drive the bridge hand forward.

For the first training sessions, use medium speed. Very soft speed gives swerve more time to develop, while unnecessary power increases hop and makes touch errors harder to diagnose.

## How Do You Set Up the 15-Shot Drill?

This is an original progression inspired by the elevated-cue skill tested in Billiard University's Exam II. It is not an official BU scoring format.

Choose one corner pocket. Place an object ball about one diamond from that pocket. Put the cue ball on the straight-in line, roughly two to two-and-a-half diamonds from the object ball.

Place a blocking ball on the extension of the cue line **behind the cue ball**, on the grip side. It should not stand between the cue ball and object ball. Its purpose is to force the shaft to pass over it.

Use five obstruction distances:

| Level | Blocker-to-cue-ball distance | Technical goal |
|---|---:|---|
| 1 | 3 ball diameters | Introduce slight elevation with full balance |
| 2 | 2.5 ball diameters | Preserve the centerline as height increases |
| 3 | 2 ball diameters | Control a moderate elevated bridge |
| 4 | 1.5 ball diameters | Deliver a compact, stable stroke |
| 5 | 1 ball diameter | Test high difficulty without excess force |

Shoot three attempts at each level for 15 total shots. Reset every ball carefully so the only planned change is the blocker distance.

## How Is Each Shot Scored?

Award one point only when all four conditions are met:

1. The object ball enters the intended pocket.
2. The cue ball does not scratch.
3. The cue, bridge hand, clothing, and cue ball do not disturb the blocker.
4. The cue ball does not visibly hop before contacting the object ball.

The maximum score is 15. A useful initial benchmark is 12/15, with at least two successful attempts at every level. A total score can hide a weakness: 12 points with 0/3 at Level 5 means the highest elevation is not yet reliable.

| Score | Interpretation | Next step |
|---:|---|---|
| 0–5 | Setup or contact is unstable | Return to Levels 1–2 and reduce elevation |
| 6–9 | Basic concept is present | Build repeatability at Levels 2–3 |
| 10–11 | Useful intermediate control | Diagnose the first failing distance |
| 12–14 | Match-useful foundation | Add a small cut angle after repeating the score |
| 15 | Strong session result | Confirm on another day before adding spin |

## What Is the Pre-Shot Routine for Every Attempt?

1. Stand on the shot line with the cue near level.
2. Identify the cue ball's vertical centerline.
3. Place the bridge and confirm a balanced stance.
4. Raise the butt only until the shaft clears the blocker.
5. Choke up if the normal grip position strains the shoulder or pulls the cue off line.
6. Make two or three short warm-up strokes.
7. Pause briefly at the end of the backswing.
8. Accelerate smoothly at medium speed.
9. Hold the finish and watch for swerve, hop, or blocker contact.

Use the same routine after a miss. Changing stance, bridge, speed, and tip position simultaneously makes the result impossible to diagnose.

## How Do You Diagnose the Miss?

| Symptom | Likely cause | First correction |
|---|---|---|
| Cue ball curves left or right | Lateral tip error; too much elevation | Reduce height and check the chalk mark |
| Object ball cuts thinner than expected | Cue ball is airborne or curving at contact | Reduce speed or cue elevation |
| Miscue or scoop-like contact | Tip too low; cue stabbed downward | Move contact closer to center and soften the grip |
| Cue or hand touches the blocker | Insufficient clearance or unstable bridge | Raise only slightly more and secure the bridge |
| Draw dies before the object ball | Hop and distance consume useful spin | Flatten the cue if possible; prioritize the pot |
| Player loses balance | Grip too far back; body too far away | Choke up and move closer |
| Make/miss pattern is random | Delivery variables keep changing | Return to Level 1 and standardize speed |

Diagnose the cue ball, not only the pocket result. A made ball accompanied by a large curve, uncontrolled hop, or disturbed blocker is not a clean success.

## Why Does More Elevation Create Swerve?

Sidespin combined with downward cue angle tilts the cue ball's spin axis. Cloth friction then curves the ball sideways. The more elevated the cue and the more lateral the hit, the stronger the visible curve can become over the available distance.

That is why “I aimed correctly” may be true while the cue ball still misses the intended contact. The aim line was straight, but the delivered path was not.

The solution for the basic elevated shot is not to guess a larger compensation. First reduce elevation, remove intentional sidespin, and improve centerline contact. Add controlled curve only after a repeatable straight baseline exists.

## Why Can the Cue Ball Hop?

An elevated cue drives part of its force downward. The table pushes back, and the cue ball can leave the cloth. More elevation and greater speed generally increase the effect.

A small, nearly invisible hop may occur on many pool shots. The training concern is a visible bounce that remains active near object-ball contact. An airborne cue ball contacts a different vertical part of the object ball and can alter the effective cut.

If hop appears, try these changes in order:

1. Lower the butt while maintaining clearance.
2. Reduce speed.
3. Move the blocker slightly farther away and rebuild technique.
4. Recheck whether the tip is striking too low.

## When Should You Add Cut Angles, Follow, or Draw?

Do not add everything at once.

- **Beginner:** Use the first three levels with a straight center-ball hit.
- **Intermediate:** Complete all five levels and repeat 12/15 or better.
- **Advanced:** Move the object ball to create a 10–15-degree cut after the straight baseline is stable.
- **Follow or draw:** Add only one vertical-tip change per session.
- **Sidespin:** Add last, because elevation makes lateral error and swerve harder to separate.

When adding a cut, keep the blocker distance fixed. When adding draw, return to a straight shot. Controlled experimentation requires one new variable at a time.

## Can Touching the Blocking Ball Be a Foul?

Yes, depending on the rules and format. Under WPA Rule 3.6, the athlete is responsible for equipment, clothing, hair, jewelry, and body parts they control at the table. In all-ball-foul play, moving the blocker can be a foul.

Local league rules may handle accidentally moved balls differently, so confirm the applicable rule set. Even when a practice-room touch carries no match penalty, count it as a failed drill attempt. Clearance is part of the skill.

## What Mistakes Slow Improvement?

- Raising the cue much higher than necessary.
- Trying to find the aim line only after the cue is vertical.
- Gripping tightly to “hold” the cue on line.
- Hitting harder because the obstruction creates anxiety.
- Forcing a long follow-through into the cloth.
- Practicing draw before center-ball contact is stable.
- Adding sidespin and a cut angle in the same first session.
- Counting only made balls and ignoring curve, hop, scratches, or blocker contact.
- Changing several setup variables after every miss.

## Frequently Asked Questions

:::faq
### How high should I raise the cue?
Only high enough for the shaft to clear the blocking ball, rail, or other obstruction. There is no universal angle because the required height depends on distance, bridge length, cue dimensions, and body position.

### Should I look at the cue ball last?
Some players contact center ball more accurately that way on elevated shots. Test both cue-ball-last and object-ball-last focus, then compare the chalk-mark pattern and results.

### Why does the cue ball curve even when I aim straight?
A small left-or-right tip offset creates more swerve when the cue is elevated. Reduce the angle and check whether the chalk mark is on the vertical centerline.

### Should I hit an elevated shot hard?
Not automatically. Extra speed can lengthen the hop and magnify delivery errors. Start at medium speed and use only the force the complete shot requires.

### Is the 15-shot drill an official Billiard University test?
No. BU Exam II includes an S8 Elevated Cue Drill, but the five-level, 15-shot progression and scoring system here are an independent practice format inspired by that skill.

### What score means I am ready to use the shot in a match?
Twelve out of 15 with at least two makes at every level is a useful practice benchmark, not a certification. Repeat it on multiple days and tables before treating the shot as dependable.
:::

## Sources

- [WPA Rules of Play—Effective October 21, 2026](https://wpapool.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/WPA-Rules-2026-10-21-211.pdf)
- [Dr. Dave: Cue Elevation Effects](https://drdavepoolinfo.com/faq/cue/elevation/)
- [Billiard University: Exam Learning Resources](https://billiarduniversity.org/resources/learning/)
- [Billiard University Exam II—Bachelors Level](https://billiarduniversity.org/documents/BU_Exam-II_Skills-Bachelors.pdf)
- [Dr. Dave: Draw Shot Physics—Cue Elevation Effects](https://drdavepoolinfo.com/bd_articles/2009/july09.pdf)